Stone Settings and Its Types For Jewelry Designs
One of the essential phases in jewelry making is Stone Setting. In this process, gemstones get attached to metal casting. The primary purpose of stone setting is to hold a gem securely as well as to enhance the brilliance of a gemstone by showing its clarity, cut, and color. There are various types of gemstone setting methods depending upon the characteristics of specific gemstones and the types of cuts a gemstone has. Stone setting in a piece of jewelry is done by considering all job nature such as household chores and other vigorous work; your gem is safe. So, whenever selecting a diamond or colored gemstone for your piece of jewelry, it's important to choose the proper setting. There are generally two types of gemstone cutting. Let us explain both the types.
Types of Gemstone Cutting
The two types of gemstone cutting are: Cabochon and Facet. Cabochon refers to a gemstone polished and shaped with a smooth, rounded surface, while facet refers to a gemstone cut with a flat, angled surface.
These cut gemstones are usually dome-shaped, convex, hemispherical, and have a flat bottom. Typically, the stones that are opaque transformed into Cabochon. In these stones, inclusions and markings can be seen. Softer stones converted into cabochons are much better than other stones. Cabochons can be designed in various shapes, such as oval, Pearl, elliptical, Rectangle, Marquise, Square, and Heart. The preferred stones for transforming into cabochons are Agate, Onyx, Quartz, Aquamarine, Turquoise, Opals, Amethyst, etc.
These cut gemstones are ordinarily flat, angled, and polished surface on the pointed bottom. Most of the time, the transparent gemstones are transformed into facet-cut jewelry. The best thing about facet cut is that the light refracts inside and reflects outside the stone. Moreover, mainly hard gemstones are used for facet cutting. Facet Stones can be formed in various shapes, such as trillions, navettes, fantasy cuts, stars, cushion cuts, baguettes, etc. The stones mainly preferred for this cut are Emerald, Garnet, Hessonite, Peridot, Ruy, Beryl, Tourmaline, Zircon, etc.
Types of Facet Cut
The primary three types of Facet cuts are explained below:
- Brilliant Cut:- Brilliant cuts are those cuts that have cone-shaped, triangular, and kite-shaped facets that extend outward from the center of the gemstone. The most popular shape of this facet cut is rounded, as it enhances the beauty of the stone.
- Step Cut:- Step cuts, also known as Trap Cuts or Cushion Cuts, are the type of facet cut in which a stone is rectangular or square steps, where the facets are arranged parallel to one another. The facets appear more prominent and look like steps.
- Mixed Cuts:- This cutting technique blends the brilliant and step cuts into a unique facet structure. The cutting can be customized and looks more creative when a brilliant cut on the top of the stone and a step cut on the bottom.
We have learned about the types of cuts available for gemstone cutting. Next, we will go through the kinds of stone settings in jewelry and their types. For that, we have to know a little about the stone setting.
Stone Settings and Its Process
The process in which gemstones are secured or settled in the piece of jewelry that looks beautiful as well as protects the precious and semi-precious stones. Jewelry manufacturers have numerous methods to set or secure a gemstone into a jewelry piece that is completely based on the gemstone's proportions and cuts. To know the complete procedure, we should go through the entire process of gemstone setting. The process of stone setting is explained as follows:
Step 1:- Evaluate The Situation
When a jeweler receives the order for stone setting, the first thing done by the jeweler is to analyze the type of stone and the metal demanded by the customer. This analysis determines whether the task is easy or difficult to set a stone in the jewelry piece. The jeweler then chooses one of the stone setting types that should be used according to that.
Step 2:- Make Sure that the Stone gets Fitted
Sometimes, the stone might need the correct size and shape. To make it perfect, cutting of stone is required. The time consumed in this step depends upon the size and durability of the stone. Also, the metal carving should be made accordingly. It is a crucial step to make sure that the stone must be cut accurately so that it easily fits into the metal carving.
Step 3:- Setting up the Stone
When the stone gets ready after cutting and shaping, the jeweler sets the stone into a piece of jewelry or a metal carving demanded by clients. It is a step at which the jeweler ensures that the stone is secured in the piece of jewelry and sends it for further action.
Step 4:- Cleaning and Polishing
To ensure the condition of your jewelry piece, the jeweler must do polishing and cleaning before sending it to you. The polishing and cleaning process can sometimes loosen the stones, so the article will be sent for a quality check as the final round of inspection before it is sent back to the customer.
Step 5:- Check and Inspect the Final Product
The final step is to check and inspect whether the stone is carved into the jewelry piece securely. Every jewelry piece must undergo a quality control inspection before handing the product to the customer. The jeweler ensures this; otherwise, the jewelry will be sent for another round of quality control checks.
Types of Stone Settings
Mainly, there are several types of Stone Setting used worldwide to give jewelry item an outstanding finish that will blow your mind and attracts people to praise you and your choice. The types of stone settings are defined below:
- Claw / Prong Settings:-
It is one of the most demanded stone settings. Prong setting, also known as Claw setting, is the most comfortable and less costly technique for gemstone setting. It comprises thin pieces of metal rising from the metal carving that holds the stones from corners. The prong's jewelry looks flawless when it holds the precious stones from its edges. In this setting, you can opt for many shapes, such as round, v-shaped, square, etc. Depending on the size of the gemstones, one can choose 3, 4, 6, 8, etc., claws for your piece of jewelry.
- Bezel / Rub-over Settings:-
Bezel setting, also known as the Rub-over setting, is the oldest type of stone setting. It is the most secure type of stone setting as the metal belts around the stone keep it in the same place and give gemstones hardly a chance to fall. It provides a safe grip and saves the gemstone's rims, the band, and the structure from scratches and other damage. The Bezel setting is a great option for soft gemstones like pearl, opal, amber, tanzenite, and emerald. This setting is best for people who have a sporty and vigorous lifestyle.
- Cluster Setting:-
Cluster word means group. It is a type of stone setting in which several stones are grouped around a bigger stone placed in the center to form a jewelry piece. The cluster setting gives a unique look to your jewelry. The gems in cluster settings can be shaped into floral shapes. This type of setting became famous because it was worn by The Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Diana during the 1980's and the late 2000's. A jewelry piece using emerald, ruby, sapphire, etc., as a central stone will be the best option in the Cluster setting.
- Channel Setting:-
Channel setting is a technique in which gemstones are fixed between two parallel paths on each metal border. There are no metal pieces settled in between the gems. The channel-setting style makes jewelry items like eternity rings and tennis bracelets. Mostly, eternity rings are in trend as this setting provides excellent safety to small diamonds and precious or semi-precious gemstones engraved in a Channel setting. Channel settings are mainly used in Round, Oval, Square, Brilliant, Princess cut, or baguette cut stones.
- Pave Setting:-
A Pave Setting is a type of setting in which small, equal-sized gemstones are set into the small cavities pierced out on the surface of a jewelry piece. These cavities are made using a jewelry drill known as 'bur.' It is the most famous way of setting small gemstones into a piece of jewelry. This setting is usually more expensive as it needs better mastery and accuracy to make jewelry. It is a method in which the exterior of a jewelry article seems to be surrounded with tiny gemstones as well as diamonds.
- Burnish / Gypsy / Flush Setting:-
Flush Setting, also well known as Gypsy or Burnish Setting, is one of the best methods, which is similar to beads setting. It gives a simple and elegant look, that's why it is famous for men's and wedding rings. In this setting, gemstones are positioned in cavities drilled out on the surface of jewelry. The space engraved should be equivalent to or smaller than the size of gemstones. This setting gives the utmost protection to the stone because the stone is placed either below or equal to the metal surface.
- Tension Setting:-
A tension setting is a setting in which a diamond or other gemstone is placed between two points of metal. It looks like stones seem to be floating. This setting needs substantial metals to design sufficient tension and pressure to hold a gemstone vigorously. Platinum and Titanium are the hardest metals that are mainly preferred to be used in this setting to hold the stone firmly. Also, the stones having the highest hardness level are selected for this setting, such as Ruby, Diamond, Sapphire, Topaz, etc.
These are some of the most prominent and famous types of Stone settings. Selecting jewelry according to your wish is one of the best feelings ever. You need to have a look at these stone settings that will take your piece of jewelry to another level.